Are you an early Christmas decoration planner, or do you prefer to put everything up on Christmas Eve? If you’re one or the other, or somewhere in the middle, you won’t want to miss this step-by-step tutorial on how to make a DIY Christmas tree out of wood. It is so sweet that you won’t want to take it down when the holidays are over!

We all want a beautiful Christmas tree to decorate our home during the holidays. There is always the option of getting an artificial Christmas tree, but why not make your own unique wooden Christmas tree this year? The main advantage of making the tree yourself is that you can make it the size and colour that you want, to make it perfectly fit your home decor.

In this tutorial we will show you how to create a DIY Christmas tree with a very original and minimalist design.

DIY Christmas tree: Tools and Materials

Tools you need for the DIY Christmas tree

DIY Christmas tree out of wood: Step by step tutorial

The main advantage of this wooden DIY Christmas tree is its original design. It is not just for Christmas, and will be a fabulous decorative addition to your home all year round. The best part about it is that you don’t need to start looking for a place to store the tree after the holidays.

The level of difficulty is medium, since it requires a bit of practice with the use of the table saw and the mitre saw. Remember that you can also use hand tools for this. You won’t regret making it! It could also be a fun and interesting family activity. The little ones will enjoy helping by painting it and hanging the ornaments.

To carry out this project, you will need about 8 hours. Most of that time will be spent cutting the wooden pieces and waiting for the mounting adhesive to harden. These are the steps to follow.

Step 1 – Cut the wooden pieces that will make up the structure

The external structure of this Christmas tree is made up of a white wooden triangle. Cut the board with a table saw or a circular saw, and use a mitre saw for the angled ends. You will need three boards in total, with the following measurements:

  • 91 x 9 x 1.9 cm and a 45° angle at one end, and a 22.5° angle at the other end 
  • 89 x 9 x 1.9 cm and a 45° angle at one end and a 22.5° angle at the other
  • 71.5 x 9 x 1.9 cm and both ends at an angle of 22.5°

Next, apply mounting adhesive to the ends to fix the wooden boards. Begin with the top of the tree by joining the two ends cut at an angle of 45°. Don’t join the ends themselves, glue the end of one board to the other board, making sure that one end follows the other in a straight line. For the base of the tree, use the board with both ends cut at an angle of 22.5°.

Lastly, cover the sides of the triangle with self-adhesive edging tape.

Step 2 – Make the tree branches

Cut the branches of the DIY Christmas tree

The internal structure of the tree consists of several wooden strips, each measuring 1 metre long and 21 mm thick. The widths of each strip will be 58, 44, 34 and 21 mm.

For the central part or trunk, use a strip of wood measuring 79.5 x 4.4 cm. You can then arrange the rest of the wooden strips randomly until you are happy with the design of the internal part of the tree. To do this, follow these steps:

  1. Trace with a pencil the inner space of the triangle on kraft paper.
  2. Place the slats on the paper and mark the angles with the help of a carpenter angle ruler. You can also use a protractor for this.
  3.  Cut the pieces with the mitre saw or with a handsaw.
  4. Join the strips with mounting adhesive.
  5. Apply woodstain in an oak tone to highlight the wood grain and to protect the wood.

Step 3 – Fix the DIY Christmas tree together

After following these steps, all you have to do is fix the internal part of the tree to the outer wooden structure. To this end, apply mounting adhesive to the upper and lower parts of the tree trunk and on the ends of the branches.

Remember that the main advantage of this tree is that you don’t have to put it away once the holidays are over, since it can be easily integrated it into your home’s decor.

Place the tree on top of a few boxes that have been decorated with Christmas patterns, which you can also use to store gifts inside.

Step 4 – Light it up!

DIY Christmas tree

Last but not least, hang LED garland lights around the tree branches inside the tree, and show off your fabulous handmade Christmas tree!

Did you enjoy making this DIY Christmas tree? If you did and you like original and unconventional Christmas trees for your home, you can find more inspiration in this post on 10 alternative Christmas trees!

Pantry makeover tutorial by @fourcornersinteriors

Viewing our home almost 4 years ago, I fell in love with the fact that the kitchen was a decent size yet had a separate utility space at the end of it. But I knew immediately that the orange wood units, floor to ceiling tiles and dated fixtures had to go! After a slow renovation and re-renovation process of our home over the 3.5 years living here, we saved the best till last with the kitchen and utility renovation. A choice I don’t regret because aside from discovering new DIY hacks that made the old kitchen liveable, I was able to really assess how we used the space in order to determine our needs for a pantry makeover and bar area! In this blog post I will discuss how I planned the spaces and the thought process as well as trends that influenced the design decisions!

We also created a breakfast bar which we styled in partnership with ManoMano – keep reading to the second half of the article!

Pantry makeover guide

Step 1: Planning

Planning & dimensions for the pantry makeover
Planning & dimensions for the pantry makeover

When you have a small space to work with, measurements are vital. Not just to ensure you order the right items, but also to ensure you maximise the space! The first thing I did was measure out the full width and length of the room to assess what I could fit in it. I knew from our existing use of the space that we wanted to store food items, laundry items, our washing machine and deep freezer as well as tools and small kitchen appliances. 

I made a quick sketch of how I envisioned the space, noting all the things I could think of that would be stored and then began sourcing. I tried to be as precise as possible with regard to spacing between the shelving to ensure none looked uneven.

Step 2: Prepare the shopping list for the pantry makeover

Once I had a plan in place, I could get to the fun part – shopping!

Using ManoMano’s search engine is definitely my preferred way of navigating the site. And through it, I was able to select the perfect items for the new dual purpose space. It was important to us that we have sustainable and long wearing furnishings made from wood and metal for our pantry makeover; both were easily fulfilled with the options on the site. 

I selected 4 key pieces from ManoMano to achieve the perfect pantry makeover:

  • 6 industrial style Shelves – I knew I wanted something a bit more rustic and industrial for the pantry. It was also really important to me that we use sustainable materials. So when I saw the 140cm solid wood shelves with black brackets, I fell in love! 
  • Black and gold industrial light – the perfect lights to not only illuminate what is quite a small space, but also very in keeping with the modern industrial style I was going for. 
  • Three tier laundry cart – easily one of my favourite unique finds for the space is this laundry cart. I am constantly throwing things on top of the machine to include in washes, often mixing up colours in tow! So this cart seemed like the ideal way to store laundry and also cart the washing out to the drying line. Plus the baskets are removable so they also work well as general laundry baskets!
  • Pots and Pans rack – we had a wooden pots and pans rack in our previous utility space. It was highly functional but very old so the wooden hooks often fell off. Finding a metal replacement that was smaller in size was perfect!

Step 3: Demolish it all and reassess plans 

With the help of a contractor, we completely stripped the room down to the bones. Removed the existing floor to ceiling green tiles, wood cladded wall and ceiling and changed the flooring. 

Before pantry makeover

We used concrete screed to even out the floor and installed plasterboard and then plaster to ready the walls for painting and fitting. 

Once all stripped down, I quickly realised that the even corner I had sketched out, was not possible. I assumed the chimney breast below that poked out of the corner was removable cladding and as a result, ordered the same 140cm shelves as for the main wall. It also meant the shelves on the main wall wouldn’t be perfectly lined up as planned. Fortunately, as the chosen shelves were solid wood, we were able to cut them down to 90cm using a mitre saw similar to this one here. And on the plus side, I got 2 extra shelves out of it!

Step 4: Install the brackets 

Install the brackets for the pantry makeover

We used a laser level to mark out the points where the brackets needed to be installed. We did this initially before painting to prevent any cracks in the paint or imperfections in the finish. 

Shelves up
Shelves up

The shelves were heavy (solid wood and all) so it did require two people to lift and place onto the brackets before screwing into place. 

Step 5: Pantry makeover finishing touches

Pantry makeover with shelving and organisation
Completed pantry makeover

I filled the shelves with rows of glass and bamboo and cork lidded jars, installed the lights and pot rack, and added the laundry cart and with some additional storage baskets. And so our pantry makeover was complete! 

In addition to the pantry makeover, we also renovated our entire kitchen – below I’ll explain how I also partnered with ManoMano to create some style with function!

Bonus makeover: Breakfast bar

I managed to include two different styles in this renovation – industrial style for the pantry makeover and modern lux in the kitchen but I really wanted to find a way to include another design style I love: Japandi!

Breakfast bar: before
Breakfast bar: before
Breakfast bar: after
Breakfast bar: after

For this I decided to change the layout of the wall units on the left side of the kitchen. Rather than seeing the large unit in straight view upon entry to the room, I moved that unit to the left of the door. In its place I selected a pair of 120cm floating shelves. These serve a dual purpose; creating the illusion of more space, since the eye can now see the full length of the room to the wall. But also my favourite part – styling! Of course I wanted an excuse to add some purely decorative pieces to the space and some plants too!

The materials used for the Japandi breakfast bar:

  • Chopping boards – ManoMano stock some pretty quirky shaped chopping boards! I love how they are functional but can also be really stylish. 
  • Ceramic vases are great for creating that popular Japandi style
  • Real plants are a great addition to any shelving and these plant pots are perfect to store them
  • But if you’re not particularly green fingered, these cute artificial plants are very on trend
  • White & gold cutlery
  • Show-stopping bar stools

With the addition of the pantry, I knew we would not lose any space by altering the unit design of the new kitchen. By replacing the units and drawers with a shallow unit to allow for an overlapping breakfast bar, it fit in perfectly.

All I needed were the perfect kitchen stools. ManoMano basically read my mind, stocking a pair of the gold geometric stools I had my eye on but with the added luxury of velvet cushion pads. The stools create the perfect focal point in the room and that added opulence achieved by using gold as an accent.

Breakfast bar stools

Finished off with heat resistant placemats to protect my new quartz worktops and the ever so stylish complimentary white and gold cutlery sets, our kitchen dreams have truly been made!

Breakfast bar inspiration

Did you enjoy this article on a pantry makeover and breakfast bar styling by Four Corners Interiors? Why not read our tutorial on a DIY window seat or even our wall and ceiling paint buying guide!

Are you creating your own window storage bench too? Share your finished results with us on Instagram using the #mymanomanoway#manomanouk and #youvegotthis hashtags!

DIY window seat tutorial by Little Terraced House

Victorian houses have surprisingly little storage, so I am always looking for solutions to create extra space for all our clutter, without compromising on the style of the house.  This blog will take you through a DIY window seat with storage in a bay window – creating a stylish space to sit and hide away your bits and bobs.  You can find more about our renovation and DIY projects over at Little Terraced House.

DIY window seat: Tools & materials

DIY window seat with storage: Step-by-step tutorial

Step 1. Draw out your plans for your window seat

First and foremost, sketch out a plan of your window seat so that you can work out the lengths of wood required and how much MDF you will need.  I chose to set our seat back a little, as if it had been flush with the corners of the bay window, it would have been far too deep. I also wanted to keep the original skirting board intact, so this guide works around them.

Step 2. Build the frame

Use an angle finder to work out the angles of your bay window.  You then need to set the mitre saw to the correct angle and cut the lengths of wood for your frame as illustrated below and using the plans you drew up at step 1. The cordless Bosch mitre saw is great for beginners as it is light and easy to use. You will need to turn the wood on occasion if it is too deep for the saw to get through in one cut.

Build the frame of the window seat

Use 3.5 inch screws and heavy duty rawl plugs to fix the battens to the wall. Space the screws evenly for a strong grip. Check regularly that the frame is straight using a spirit level.

Using the pocket jig to make holes for you to screw the frame together at an angle. This allows you to easily put it together in situ without having screws sticking out of the frame.  You can then fill the holes with dowels provided in the kit or wood filler. I used wood filler which I then sanded back smooth.

You can also use instant grab adhesive for a really strong hold. Apply this first and then screw the frame together using a range of screws. I used 3.5 inch screws for the main frame and the 2 inch screws to add the support battens.

It’s a good idea to prime and paint the frame now. I didn’t do this, but it would have been much easier if I had!

Step 3. Attach the MDF cladding

The front of the window seat is clad with 6mm MDF sheets.  

Cut these to size using the mitre saw and simply attach with instant grab adhesive and panel pins or screws (only use screws if you plan to panel over the top like I did. Panel pins will be easier to hide with paint otherwise).

MDF cladding to build the structure of the DIY window seat

Use clamps to keep the MDF in place with the adhesive dries. It’ll help get it really flush against the frame.

As with the frame, it may be easier to prime and paint the inside of the cladding before attaching it to the frame.

Step 4. Attach the panelling

If you are panelling your window seat, now is the time to do it (i.e. before you attach the seat). Use 6mm MDF for the panelling.
If you are cutting around decorative skirting boards like I did, you can draw the pattern onto a sheet of MDF using a scribing compass. Once you have drawn out the shape of the skirting board, you can cut out the pattern using your jigsaw. When you have cut the shape out of the board, you can cut it down to size. My panelling is 100mm wide. Where the panelling meets the skirting board, it is 100mm wide at the narrowest part.

You may also wish to include an airbrick at this stage.

Step 5. Attach the seat

The seat is made using 12mm MDF. You could also use ply which would work well.

The window seat has four top sections. The two corners, which are fixed to the frame and the two middle sections which can be removed to access the storage below. You could also add a hinge to these two sections to make it even easier to access the storage.

Use the mitre saw to cut the angled sections. An angle finder will help or a cheat’s way to do this is to create a paper template by simply positioning a sheet of paper and making a fold along the wall, as illustrated below.  

Attach the seat to the DIY storage bench

Attach the fixed sections with screws. Use a countersink drill bit first to allow the screw to sit slightly lower than the top of the seat, then fill over with wood filler.

Step 6. Attach decorative beading

DIY window seat

You can now add decorative beading. I added a half dowel along the edge of the seat using instant grab adhesive and panel pins. You could also add decorative moulding within the panels for a period finish.

Step 7. Fill and finish the window seat

Use wood filler to fill any joins or over any screw holes and sand back smooth. Use caulk around all the edges for a flawless finish.

Step 8. Time to prime

Prime the window seat with a suitable MDF primer and paint as desired for a perfect finish. And there we have it, your very own DIY window seat with storage!

Finished DIY window seat with storage
Finished DIY window seat with storage

Did you enjoy this article on a DIY window seat with storage by Little Terraced House? Why not read our tutorial on DIY ornate wall panelling or even our wall and ceiling paint buying guide!

Are you creating your own window storage bench too? Share your finished results with us on Instagram using the #mymanomanoway#manomanouk and #youvegotthis hashtags!

Ornate wall panelling guide by Daniel Bland

Wall panelling is a really fast and easy way to spruce up a room, small or large. For this home DIY ornate wall panelling project, I transformed my spare room into a home gym (to try and encourage myself to actually use the exercise equipment I bought months ago).

When it comes to ornate wall panelling, there are loads of different styles and materials you can use, however the principles are largely the same so feel free to take these tips and do your own thing… I’ve gone for ornate full length panels with a fun curved corner detail using the ORAC range from Manomano. It was perfect for my project thanks to its lightweight and slightly flexible qualities (my walls are rather wonky) meaning I could simply measure, cut and stick without any fuss.

Materials & tools you need for DIY ornate wall panelling:

The materials you need for your DIY ornate wall panelling

Step 1: Prepare the walls 

Start by checking over the walls and use some wall filler to fix any holes/dents and sand once dry, and because I started with a black room I gave it a coat of cheap white paint so I could actually see my pencil markings next.

Step 2: Plan proportions for the ornate wall panelling

Before you get started, you need to plan out your panel arrangement (this takes a bit of calculating so grab a piece of paper) and measure the width and height of your walls. First decide the number of panels you want on each wall (I went for 3 on each of the long walls and 1 on the back wall) and how big you want the gaps between each panel and the ceiling/floor (I went for a 10cm gap between and above, and 20cm gap at the bottom because of my plug sockets). If, like me, you’re repainting the room afterwards then go ahead and draw on the walls with pencil and see what looks good if you want to!

If you’re having the panels all equal width then you take your wall width, subtract the total sum of the gaps, and divide that by the number of panels.

e.g. 4m wall with 3 panels, 

subtract 4x 10cm gaps = 360cm

Divide by 3 (number of panels) = 120cm (width of each panel

(10cm, 120cm, 10cm, 120cm, 10cm, 120cm, 10cm = 4m)

Side note: I wanted a larger feature panel in the middle, marked out on the wall by eye and measured it to then subtract from the total width e.g. 10cm, 105cm, 10cm, 150cm, 10cm, 105cm, 10cm = 4m.

Step 3: Marking out wall panels

Using a pencil, mark out the placement for the panels on the walls. It’s a good idea to check the height of your walls at both ends of the room because it turns out my ceiling/floor aren’t parallel to each other, which means even if the panels have perfect right angles, they will look wonky to the eye. In order to avoid this I measured and marked my 10cm gap coming down from the ceiling and regular intervals and drew a line to connect them; this will be the top of the panels. Then do the same measuring up from the skirting boards so you have two lines running the length of the walls that mark the top and bottom of the panels. Along those lines you can mark out the spacing for the panels and use your spirit level or laser level to mark the vertical lines for the panels.

If you’re not adding any corner details then you can move on, if you are then you need to mark the wall for where they will go. I held one up to the corner of my drawn out panel and measured the horizontal and vertical until they were equal (in my case 13.5cm) and marked that measurement on all of the panel corners.

Step 4: Measure, cut, glue

Measure the panels you'll stick to the wall

Now you’re ready to start cutting! In an ideal world all the measurements would be nice and symmetrical but I’d recommend measuring your markings on the wall for each piece you cut, just in case. Using a mitre box you then cut each piece with a 45° angle at each end, remembering that the wall marking is the outside edge of the panel and you need to cut each end with opposite 45° angles to each other inorder to make a rectangle (I draw the diagonal line on the moulding before cutting it in case I get muddled up). Before glueing you want to offer it up to the wall to check its the right length and the angles are the right way round (always order a few extra lengths to allow for mistakes)

I like to cut all the pieces for a single panel and then glue them all at once, this way while the glue is still wet you can shimmy the pieces around once on placed on the wall in order to line up the corners as best you can (It’s not a big deal if there are some small gaps because you can fill those later).

Using the caulk gun and your adhesive, run a bead of glue down the entire length of your pieces to ensure good adhesion, and simply press onto the wall. Remove any excess glue that may seep out of the sides, and if you have any wonky walls where it won’t stay in place you can use masking tape to hold it down until the glue starts to set. 

Step 5: Caulk and paint your ornate wall panelling

Paint your wall panelling

Once your panels are all glued in place and dry, swap out the adhesive for decorators caulk and fill any gaps, be generous with it and then use a damp cloth to wipe away the excess. Once the caulk has dried for a couple hours you can go ahead and give it all a coat of paint, and you’re done!

Ornate wall panelling: finished project

I styled the room with some accessories from ManoMano, including a huge rug that basically covered the entire floor, a towel rail and side table, and even a selection of weights (x2 10kg dumbbells, x2 5kg dumbbells, and a set of 60kg dumbbells and barbell) for me to look at and feel guilty about not using. Et voilà!

Did you enjoy this article on DIY ornate wall panelling by Daniel Bland? Why not read our tutorial on a DIY sliding door or even our wall and ceiling paint buying guide!

Are you working on some ornate wall panelling too too? Share your finished results with us on Instagram using the #mymanomanoway, #manomanouk and #youvegotthis hashtags!

Kitchen scullery tutorial by My Tiny Estate

The Project 

When we first decided to create a kitchen scullery, what we had in mind was to create a very multifunctional room that could be used as an overflow kitchen. As we are converting the old linen rooms from the servant’s quarters in our derelict Estate, we have several small cupboards/rooms so that makes us very creative with how to make a space functional yet beautiful.

The Inspiration 

We always have a very clear aesthetic to make a space quite neutral – we want it to look as though it could have been there for a long time, whilst adding a subtle contemporary twist. 

Restoring an old Estate, we try to be very considerate with the spaces. The TV Series Downton Abbey provides us with inspiration when it comes to space layouts and props used to stage the spaces.

The Design 

First things first, we gave the space for the kitchen scullery a lot of thought. When working with a small space there is no room for error, every inch counts and by thinking about the space layout and how the room will be used, you can get down to the small details designing the room. Dean designed the layout, it was very important for us to have a centre piece which was going to be an original sink that we found. We also wanted to retain the top shelves that were part of the room.

Building your Furniture

It was our first time building actual furniture, and it just takes time, the right tools, many screws and a lot of glue! We used 18mm MDF and cut it to our specific size based on our requirements. In our case we were going for rectangle shaped cupboards. 

We always swear by 3 tools which are super versatile and we use ALL THE TIME:

 – Electric Drill

 – Guide rail with Circular Saw

 – Good quality sander

Kitchen scullery: DIY in 8 easy steps

Step 1: Creating the shell of the cupboards

Once the four pieces of the cupboards were cut to the sizes that we needed, we put them together and with a pencil we marked a line where the glue and screws would have to be located to join the cupboards together. Once we made the shell, we let it dry and added the backing.

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DIY kitchen cupboards

Step 2: Put the cupboards in place

We made three of these units which we placed in the scullery and we used them to support the very old sink on top.

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Step 3: Tiling the splashback for the kitchen scullery

Once we built up to it, we started tiling the splashback. We had this crazy idea where we wanted to use leftover marble tiles that we had from our bathroom makeover, to recreate paneling with marble! I know it sounds a bit odd, but it just worked so well in our minds!

We have a wet tile cutter, which is a must – we have never broken a tile and as we normally use fairly expensive tiles, it’s definitely worth having and super easy to use. There are a lot of wet tile cutters, we have an affordable one which is perfect for what we need. We have had it for 2 years and it’s still going strong!

DIY tiling for the kitchen splashback

When tiling, our advice is always get the first tile level. Start from the center point and work your way outwards, the next tiles shouldn’t be as difficult. We do always use a tile leveller which is a game changer for DIYers. You can find the ones that we use here.

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Step 4: Grouting

We left the tiles drying for 24 hours and the absolute best feeling is when you remove the tile levellers and are able to grout, as suddenly it feels like the space is starting to come together! Talking from experience, when grouting it is worth having a grouting sponge, they do not cost much and the work gets done much faster and we think, looks better.

DIY kitchen scullery by My Tiny Estate

Step 5: Add the kitchen scullery worktop

One thing that we didn’t do ourselves was to make the worktop, as we were using quartz and as our space is not square, we needed to have professionals cutting it. However, if you use a different material like wood, you can definitely do it yourselves, just remember to measure twice to cut once.

Step 6: Time for the cupboard doors

To complete the space, we made three cute little doors for the cupboards, and used the exact same method as before; measure, cut to size, glue and screw and then fill in and sand! Here is where a good sander gets put to use and makes the whole process come together. I love sanding – said no one ever! Personally, one of our most dreadful jobs. We have sanded a lot of wood work and the dust… oh my goodness the dust was EVERYWHERE, so much so that by the time that we finished for the day we were finding dust in every orifice possible, bits everywhere! Just not fun and so tedious! 

All of this was until we discovered the Mirker sander with the vacuum. Dust? What is that?! Absolute game changer, so much so that we don’t mind sanding whatsoever, and the finish is so good.

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Step 7: Let’s paint!

Once everything is well filled and sanded, we just prime and paint.

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Step 8: Kitchen scullery final touches

And finally, the last bits adding hardware, giving everything a good clean and styling it.

Finishing touches to the kitchen scullery
Kitchen scullery inspiration

We are so proud to know that we have built this space! It’s functional, it’s beautiful and it’s exactly what we designed from the start!

As self-confessed extreme DIYers, we always say that good tools make a difference to making a job easier, and ManoMano is very handy for finding any tool that we require for any project that we want to tackle. 

Did you enjoy this article on a DIY kitchen scullery? Why not read our tutorial on a DIY sliding door or even our kitchen splashback buying guide!

Are you working on a kitchen scullery too? Share your finished results with us on Instagram using the #mymanomanoway#manomanouk and #youvegotthis hashtags!