Category

DIY

Category

Did you know that sliding doors are a great way to save space in any room of your home? This DIY sliding door tutorial will show you how to convert a regular hinged door into a sliding door

Switching from a hinged door to a sliding one can save you a great amount of space at home, especially in small kitchens and bathrooms. And you don’t even need to buy a new door, you can turn your old door into a sliding one, saving a lot of money in the process.

DIY sliding door project
DIY sliding door project

This tutorial will show you how to get this done so that you can make the best out of the available space in your home.

DIY sliding door: Tools and materials

Tools you'll need for the door project
Tools you’ll need for the door project

Cost, duration and difficulty

If you already have most of the necessary tools, the total cost of the materials is approximately £90. 

The level of difficulty is medium, as you will need to have some experience using power tools and assembling furniture. If you would prefer an easier option, you can always purchase indoor and sliding doors, ready for installation, on ManoMano.co.uk.

This project will take about 8 or 10 hours from beginning to end, so you will need a full day for your DIY sliding door project.

DIY sliding door from a hinged door tutorial

When turning a door into a DIY sliding door, we have to bear in mind that a hinged door fits right inside the door frame, while a sliding door rests outside the frame. It is for this reason that the sliding door needs to be at least 2 cm wider than the hinged door.

In this particular case, the door opening was bigger than the hinged door that we were recycling (15 cm wider). In addition, the door had glass panels that we wanted to remove. The following are the steps that we followed to make the door wider and give it the look of a barn door.

Upcycle an old door into a functional sliding door
Upcycle an old door into a functional sliding door

Step 1 – Remove the door’s glass panels

Remove the glass panels of the original hinged door
Remove the glass panels of the original hinged door

First, we removed the door’s mouldings around the glass panels. We cut it with a sabre saw and used a chisel and hammer to remove the mouldings.

You can also use a handsaw rather than the sabre saw, but it will require more strength and time.

Step 2 – Make the door wider

You can widen the sliding door
You can widen the door

In the next step we made the hinged door wider and covered the central opening with wood.

We cut a few wooden boards measuring 50 x 7 x 2.2 cm with the mitre saw, and then we fixed them with screws onto the inner side of the frame. For this we used a dowelling jig as it allows you to drill oblique holes.In order to widen the door, we screwed a few slats measuring 220 x 3.4 x 3.4 cm to one of its sides, until we reached the desired width. It had to be wide enough to fit the door opening and to prevent the light from coming through. Bear in mind that the screw heads must be flush with the slats to avoid gaps in between them.  

Step 3 – Finish the door with wood panelling

Stick panelling to the sliding door
Stick panelling to the sliding door

Next, we covered the door with wood panelling. This was a good way to hide the different materials that had been used and give it a more uniform look. Plus, we wanted the door to have a distinct and decorative style, that of an old barn door. We applied grab adhesive over the entire surface and then fixed the wood planks to it one by one.  

Step 4 – Protect and decorate the wood

In the following step we stained the wood. We used lasur in different tones in order to give it a vintage look. Lasur is not only decorative, it also waterproofs the wood and protects it from UV rays.

For the exterior frame, we used a black water-based enamel matching the sliding door guide that we were going to install.

Step 5 – Install the sliding guide

Install the sliding guide
Install the sliding guide

The last step was to install the sliding guide. These guides are usually made up of the following pieces:

  • A bar or rail
  • Nuts, stoppers and bolts
  • Sliding rollers
  • Side stoppers
  • Lower guiding rail

Follow the below installation steps for your DIY sliding door:

  1. Level the sliding guide and mark the spots where the holes are to be drilled on the wall.
  2. Drill the holes and insert the plugs with the help of a hammer.
  3. Screw in the rear stoppers of the guide. This will ensure that it is not flush to the wall. Next, tighten the front nuts with a hex socket or a wrench.
  4. Mark, drill and screw the sliding rollers to the door. Bear in mind that the rollers then have to be inserted into the rail, so you might need a helping hand at this stage to lift the door if it is too heavy.
  5. Insert the side stoppers and tighten them to prevent the door from sliding out of the rail.  
  6. Screw the upper stoppers and the lower guiding rail to the floor to keep the door from swaying when you open or close it.  
DIY sliding door
DIY sliding door

If you follow all the steps above, your new sliding door will be done and ready. It is a far cry from the hinged door that we started with. We have managed to recycle the door and transform it into a great looking sliding door that is both practical and decorative.

Did you enjoy this article on a DIY sliding door? Why not read our tutorial on a DIY solar lamp made from pallets or even our sliding door buying guide!Are you converting a hinged door into a sliding door too? Share your finished results with us on Instagram using the #mymanomanoway, #manomanouk and #youvegotthis hashtags!

Would you like to set up your own bar on your terrace or in your garden? A DIY Tiki Bar or outdoor bar is the perfect place to enjoy an aperitif with the family or have a refreshing drink with friends. This tutorial will show you how to build a tiki bar step by step so you can enjoy it in the nice weather.

The sun and warm days are conducive to spending more time outdoors. Being able to do so while enjoying refreshing drinks makes it even better! So, we have put together this tutorial to show you step by step how to build a tiki bar to be your family meeting point after work, or to enjoy it with friends on weekends.

DIY Tiki Bar: tools and materials

Materials for the DIY tiki bar project

Cost, time & difficulty

The approximate cost of the materials is £80, whilst the execution time is a full day and its level of difficulty is medium, as you need to have experience in handling power tools. 

DIY Tiki Bar step-by-step

To build this tiki bar or outdoor bar, we have mainly used wood and reed. This way, we get a very natural and warm result, which goes with most outdoor environments.

Its dimensions are ideal for 2 to 4 people, but if more space is needed, several can be built and joined together.

In addition, it has a tropical style design that will bring freshness to your terrace or garden. The steps for this DIY tiki bar are detailed below.

Step 1 – Cutting the pieces

First of all, cut the wooden strips and boards with a mitre saw or a jigsaw. The pieces we will need are:

  • 3.2 cm x 3.2 cm pine laths: 2 x 200 cm long for the rear vertical posts, 2 x 180 cm long for the front vertical posts, 4 x 120 cm, 1 x 113 cm and 4 x 39 cm long to join the posts horizontally.
  • Pine wood strips 2.2 cm x 1.8 cm: 6 x 120 cm long and 12 x 39 cm long.
  • Pine boards: 11 x 11 x 45 x 1 cm for the roof, 10 x 12 x 40 x 1.8 cm for the bar top and 2 x 15 x 46 x 1.8 cm cut at an angle of 33º to join the top of the posts.

Step 2 – Building the Tiki Bar structure


To build the structure, the vertical slats of 200 and 180 cm will be screwed to the horizontal slats of 120, 113 and 39 cm long, so that the vertical slats of 180 cm will be placed at the front and the vertical slats of 200 cm at the back:

  • The 180 cm vertical slats will be placed at the front and the 200 cm vertical slats at the back.
  • One 120 cm horizontal batten at the front and two 39 cm horizontal battens at the sides shall be screwed flush with the floor.
  • At a height of 90 cm, a 120 cm front horizontal batten, a 113 cm rear horizontal batten and two 39 cm side battens shall be screwed to the front and two 39 cm side battens shall be screwed to the rear.
  • The top of the vertical front battens shall be connected to 2 horizontal battens of 120 cm. 
  • The next step is to nail the 2.2 x 1.8 cm battens horizontally, leaving a distance of 10 cm between them. Then, the 15 x 46 x 1.8 cm boards cut at an angle of 33° are screwed to the inside of the upper battens.
  • Finally, the 11 x 45 x 1.8 cm boards are nailed to the upper horizontal battens to form the roof and the 12 x 40 x 1.8 cm boards are nailed to the battens at 90 cm high.

Step 3 – Varnish it up

Next, apply a stained varnish for exteriors. It is recommended to apply a couple of coats to achieve a better protection of the wood, leaving the drying time recommended by the manufacturer between coats. This will create a weather-resistant construction.

Varnish the tiki bar so it lasts longer

Step 4 – Stapling the cane

The last step is to staple the cane around the bottom of the Tiki Bar so that it is securely attached to the slats and can withstand wind and rain.

The reed is not only decorative and gives a tropical look, but also allows you to hide a small fridge or whatever you want to store behind the tiki bar.

Finally, after you have followed all the above steps, your DIY Tiki Bar is ready for use.

Hang some outdoor LED lanterns to set the ambiance and personalise your Tiki Bar with a sign or some bunting.

Add some accessories to your DIY tiki bar

Of course, don’t forget to celebrate with a few refreshing drinks and a toast that you have succeeded in making this beautiful and functional DIY Tiki Bar for your terrace or garden.

DIY tiki bar

Did you enjoy this article on how to DIY a Tiki Bar for your garden or terrace in 4 key steps? Why not read our tutorial on a DIY solar lamp made from pallets or even our fairy light buying guide to deck out your new tiki bar!

Are you making your own Tiki Bar too? Share your finished results with us on Instagram using the #mymanomanoway, #manomanouk and #youvegotthis hashtags!

Are you tired of the colour of your bathroom or kitchen tiles? Is their pattern or colour design totally out of date? Painting tiles, whether in the bathroom, kitchen, or elsewhere, is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get them to look like new again without having to endure tiresome and costly building works. Follow our painting tiles step by step guide to get them to look absolutely perfect.

Changing the kitchen or bathroom tiles can be both irksome and expensive. The building works can last several days, which is inconvenient enough. And if you only have one bathroom in the house, then it’s even worse. Not only that, tiling a whole bathroom or kitchen can cost you between £750 and £1,500, depending on the materials used and the room’s square metres.

For this reason, if your aim is to radically change the look of your tiles in record time and with a small budget, the best solution, without a doubt, is to paint them.  This tutorial will show you everything that you need to know for painting tiles, and how to achieve a perfect finish.

Painting tiles: tools and materials

Painting tiles: tools & materials
Painting tiles: tools & materials

Cost, time and difficulty

The cost of painting tiles will mostly depend on the type of paint you choose and the total square meters of the area you want to paint. Usually, paint manufacturers indicate on the container how much paint you will need per square meter. However, be mindful of the fact that the first coat will require more amount of paint than the second.

Don’t forget that painting tools such as buckets, rollers, brushes, etc are pretty inexpensive and easy to find. 

And last but not least, the level of difficulty of painting tiles is low, and it will only take you one or two days. Most of the time will be taken up by waiting the appropriate amount of time for each of the paint coats to dry.

Tips and things to consider before you start painting tiles

There are different types of paint that can be used to paint tiles. The most common options available in your DIY shop are:

  • Tile paint: It is applied directly on the tiles and doesn’t require a primer. You can find different shades in a gloss or satin finish.
  • Epoxy paint: Epoxy paint consists of two components: a high durability and strength epoxy resin and a high performance epoxy enamel. Its use is especially suitable for areas that require a resistant paint, and it is ideal for damp areas such as the shower wall.
  • Primer and emulsion paint: Another option is to apply a primer and then a top coat of emulsion paint. The main advantage of this option is that you can choose from a wide variety of paint types and shades.

When choosing what type of paint you want to use for your tiles, you should consider the following:

  • Tile paint is especially suitable for this, as it is both washable and resistant to moisture.
  • Epoxy paint is more resistant, but its application is more laborious. It requires that both components be combined in the specific amounts indicated by the manufacturer, as well as thoroughly mixed and blended for the catalysis process to take place correctly. Not only that, it restricts you to a working time of just one or two hours, which is when it begins to harden and stops being functional.
  • Applying a primer and a top coat of paint is especially suitable when there are damp or mould issues, since you can use an anti-condensation or an anti-mould paint for the finishing top coat.

In terms of the roller, we recommend that you choose a short pile roller, in order to avoid dripping and leaving marks on the surface. For hard-to-reach areas or smaller walls, you can use mini-rollers and a round or angled paint brush for cutting in the corners between walls and ceiling.

Painting tiles step by step

Painting tiles original

Don’t hesitate any longer! Painting your tiles will greatly improve the look of your bathroom or kitchen. For this tutorial, we have painted the tiles in a small bathroom. Although the style of the tiles was quite modern, their colour and size made the bathroom look small.

Step 1 – Prepare the surface

Prepare the surface before you begin painting the tiles
Prepare the surface before you begin painting the tiles

The first thing you will need to do is check what condition the tiles are in, and repair or replace the ones that are broken or damaged. You will also need to go over the joints and fill them with putty if necessary, as well as remove any adhesive residue (from accessories such as hooks, hangers…) with a scraper.

Next, clean the tiles with either alcohol, soap and water or a degreaser, to make sure that the surface is free of dust and dirt. Otherwise, the paint’s adherence might be compromised.

You then need to protect those areas that you do not want to paint over, using masking tape, paper and dust sheets. This is a very important step, given that the type of paints that we are going to use are quite difficult to remove once they are dry.

Step 2 – Paint the tiles

Ready, set, paint!
Ready, set, paint!

Regardless of the type of paint that you choose for your tiles, the steps to correctly apply the paint will be as follows:

  1. Pour the paint into a tray or a roller bucket with a grid pattern.
  2. Load the roller by partially dipping it into the bucket and rolling it on the grid pattern.
  3. Place it on the surface that you are going to paint and move it vertically (from top to bottom) at first, and then horizontally (from side to side).
  4. For the areas near the ceiling you can use an extension pole or a ladder.

Remember that you will need to apply a minimum of two coats, regardless of the type of paint that you choose. For this tutorial we have applied two coats of primer, and another two coats of anti-condensation paint, given that the latter is insulating and can reduce the effects of damp caused by condensation, a common problem in small bathrooms.

Step 3 – Remove the protective tape and paper

Remove the masking tape
Remove the masking tape

After applying the last coat of paint and while it is still wet, remove the masking tape and paper. If in some areas the paint is already dry, you will need to go over the edges with a snap-off knife or cutter to avoid lifting the paint when removing the tape or paper.

Now you can see the final result and how much the look of this small bathroom has improved after painting the tiles: it is instantly much brighter and more spacious.

Painting bathroom tiles
Painting bathroom tiles

The shower area has been left unpainted to add colour to the room. Once the transparent glass shower screen is installed, this area will be completely closed off.

Did you enjoy this article on how to paint your bathroom or kitchen tiles? Why not read our tutorial on how to paint your summer house in 7 easy steps or even our guide on how to tile a wall!

Are you painting your tiles too? Share your finished results with us on Instagram using the #mymanomanoway, #manomanouk and #youvegotthis hashtags!

Here at ManoMano we celebrate International DIY Day on the 24th May. To make the most of this wondrous occasion, we have put together a new DIY project: a tutorial on making your own bird feeder which will encourage lots of beautiful birdsong in the garden.

Whether it’s spring, summer or the depths of winter, there are bound to be some peckish birds around. So why not give them a place to eat and rest, and at the same time fill your garden with some feathered friends? Learning how to make a bird feeder will also educate you on which birds are local to your area.

In this article, we will guide you step by step through a DIY bird feeder and also a bird nest, in addition to sharing advice on what to feed birds.

What do birds eat?

The RSPB, which is responsible for the protection of birds, recommends feeding our feathered friends all year round in order to give them a better chance to survive food shortages whenever they may occur. They suggest providing both food and water during the winter months. 

As far as food is concerned, we recommend sunflower seeds, which are ideal for most birds. Always choose quality seeds that have not undergone chemical treatment. You can place them inside the feeder, without forgetting to add a corner for water.

DIY bird feeder: Tools & Materials

For the DIY bird feeder, you will need the following tools:

You will also need the following tools to make the bird’s nest:

  • Wood file
  • Front and back side : 2 wooden planks – 240x170x10mm 
  • Right and left side: 2 wooden planks – 155x100x10mm for the nest
  • Roof of the feeder : 2 wooden planks – 220x140x10 and 221x150x10mm
  • The base: x1 wooden plank – 170x120x10mm
  • 1 plank for the floor
The tools you need for the DIY bird feeder project

Cost, duration and difficulty

You will need about 30 minutes for each of the two parts to this project. Excluding the drill, it will cost about £45 in total.

DIY bird feeder in 3 steps

Step 1: Cut it up 

Cut the 1000x80x10 mm plank of wood into several pieces:

– 2 x 14 cm planks. Make a 45° cut at the ends.

– 3 x 14 cm planks

– 1 x 15 cm plank

To cut the planks, use the frame cutter kit, which is essential for making 45° corners. If you have one to hand, use the frame saw; it will be a great help.

Step 2: Assembly

Place the two planks with 45° cuts at the sides, as shown in the photo below. These two sides will be placed on a 14 cm board that forms the base. Assemble the roof with the 15 cm and 14 cm planks, as in the photo. 

The last plank will be the bottom of our bird feeder. Before inserting the screws, remember to make a small hole with the wooden bit to prevent the wood from being damaged.

Assemble the DIY bird feeder

Step 3: Add your own touches to the DIY bird feeder

Fix the two hooked nails to the roof and thread a string through them to hang the bird feeder. You can personalise your creation by adding, for example, a wooden log to the front where the birds can rest.

Alternatively, you can glue thin wooden discs to the sides of the feeder to add further pattern and texture.

Make a bird nest in 3 steps

Make a bird nest too

Step 1: Prepare the boards

Draw the line of the roof slope on the two 240x170x10mm boards. For this step, place the boards vertically and find the centre. Next, on the 24cm side, draw a mark at 8.5cm, then draw the slope from the centre of the 17cm side to the point marked at 8.5 cm. The following photo shows the lines drawn.

The two 155x100x10mm planks will be the left and right sides of the nest, and the two 220x140x10 mm and 221x150x10mm planks will be the roof. For one of the planks where you have made the roof slope, make a hole in the centre 2.5 cm in diameter, then file the edges slightly. This hole will be the entrance to the nest. 

Step 2: Bring it together 

You can now move on to the assembly phase of the nest. Assemble the two planks with the roof slope together with the 155x100x10mm side planks, then arrange the roof with the 220x140x10mm and 221x150x10mm planks. 

Finally, complete the base by adding the 170x120x10mm board.

Step 3: Stringing it out

Finish by placing two nails in the roof, where the string will pass through to hang the nest. You can also add a piece of wood at the nest opening to make it easier for the birds to enter.

Add string to the bird feeder so you can hang it
DIY bird feeder guide
© Elisa Stone

Did you enjoy this article on how to make a bird feeder? Perhaps you’d be interested in learning about beginner beekeeping or reading our bird cage accessories buying guide!

Share your results with us on Instagram using the #mymanomanoway, #manomanouk and #youvegotthis hashtags! 

Whether you’re a fan of lazy evenings lounging in the garden or slowly sipping on pre-dinner drinks on the patio, you shouldn’t feel compelled indoors every time the summer sun goes down. That’s what outdoor lighting is for—staying out in the garden for as long as possible! Our latest project shows how you can DIY a solar lamp made from pallets, which you can place along garden pathways.

Often overlooked, outdoor lighting plays an important role in garden design and decor. It can be used to highlight a path, set the ambiance or illuminate special features such as flowerbeds or seating areas. And because it’s solar-powered, it doesn’t require cables, is easy to install and is economical.

We’ve made the solar lamp from pallet wood so that it is not only affordable, but also sturdy enough to withstand being knocked around in the garden. What’s more, this simple but eye-catching design will add an extra touch of character to your home’s outside space.

What you’ll need for the DIY solar lamp:

How to DIY a solar lamp out of pallets

Step 1: Cut the wooden pallet boards

Cut the wooden pallets for the DIY solar lamp

Take the pallet apart and prepare 5 boards from the original pallet. 

Once prepared, saw the boards into 4 pieces that will be used to make the sides of your solar lamp. We used 2 boards measuring 50 cm long and 2 measuring 40 cm long. You can adapt these measurements to the height of solar light you want, but make sure there is a 10 cm difference between the two lengths.

Step 2: Build the solar lamp frame

Lay one of the smaller boards flat on the ground and position the larger ones at right angles to its sides. Make sure that the boards at the bottom of your light are lined up correctly. Mark the position of the screws with a pencil: you’ll need one top and one bottom placement for each board.

Pre-drill your boards with a 3mm drill bit and screw in the stainless steel screws. Repeat these steps for the shorter board, which will serve as the front of your bollard light.

Step 3: Make the top of your solar lamp

Smooth the wood of your DIY solar lamp

To make the top portion of your light, cut a rectangular piece of wood to fit the dimensions you’ve prepared. Next, sand the corners of the wood so that they are smooth and splinter-free.

Using your hole saw, drill a hole in the centre of the top. If possible, use a tool that measures the same diameter as the top of your solar path light so that the fit will be snug. If you don’t have this option, you will need to glue it together and use an outdoor silicone sealant.

Step 4: Fit the solar light into the top

Fit the bulb into the DIY solar lamp

Insert the solar path light (without its base) so that the solar panel fits with the top of your bollard. If necessary, use glue and a silicone sealant.

Step 5: Attach the top of your lamp to the frame

Attach the parts for your DIY solar lamp

Before adding the top (the wood and lightbulb) that you’ve just assembled, you will need to pre-drill the wood. Once you’ve done that, you are ready to attach it onto the lamp base with the screws.

Step 6: Protect your pallet wood for the outside

Protect your garden solar lighting

Wooden pallets are not treated for outdoor use. Typically made of fir planks, the quality of each pallet varies; most will warp when exposed to the moisture and heat of an outdoor environment. To protect your solar light, you’ll need exterior-grade varnishes. Varnishes intended for extreme climatic conditions—such as those used to coat yachts or log cabins— are particularly effective. For something more natural, we recommend trying linseed oil varnish.
Whichever wood treatment you choose, it will need repainting at least once a year if you want to keep your solar light in good condition for many years to come.

All that’s left is choosing the perfect place for your DIY solar lamp—and making more to spread along your garden path!

DIY solar lamp made from wood pallets
DIY solar lamp made from wood pallets

Did you enjoy this article on a DIY solar lamp? Perhaps you’d be interested in reading our article on how solar panels work or seeing our 5 tips on outdoor living space design.

Are you making your own solar lamp out of pallets? Share your finished results with us on Instagramusing the #mymanomanoway, #manomanouk and #youvegotthis hashtags!