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If you’re planning a Halloween or bonfire night party in your garden or want to entertain in style over Christmas and New Year, this illuminated outdoor bar is the ideal place to serve your guests. The bar is wall-mounted and can be closed away when not in use. To get the party started, open the drop-down bar, flick on the fairy lights and fill the cabinet with bottles, glasses and your favourite cocktail ingredients.

What you’ll need

To do this DIY project you’ll need the following tools:

Hand saw

Wrecking bar

Hammer

Palm sander

Drill with drill bits

Holesaw kit

Stapler

In addition, these materials will be needed:

3 x Identical pallets

Assorted sandpaper to fit your palm sander in course, medium and fine grits

1.5m length of  4mm x 32mm steel chain

Rust-Oleum chalkboard spray paint or brush-on chalkboard paint

1 x Rust-Oleum Metallic copper spray

Solar fairy lights in warm white or amber

2 x Coach bolts

Screws

Eye hooks

Carabiners

Cost, time and difficulty

The approximate cost of materials for this project is £35. You can access the shopping cart of some of the tools and materials used through this link. Depending on your DIY skills, this project shouldn’t take longer 5 hours to complete.

 

Step 1

Use a wrecking bar to carefully remove the planks of wood from all 3 pallets.

 

Attach 3 of the side supports together to create an L shape and screw together. Repeat with another 3 side supports. These will form the upright corners at the back of the bar.

Step 2

Assemble the back of the bar with the new L-shape supports on the corners. You only need to cover the bottom half of the bar (which will be visible from the inside) so position 5 planks closer together to remove gaps and screw them into the corner supports. Add one plank across the top for structural integrity and add a central support. Leaving the gap on the back gives you access to add the lights later.

Step 3

Turn the back section of the bar over and attach 5 planks at the top of the bar. Again, position the planks close together.

Using a piece of cardboard or paper stapled to the top of the front, mark out the BAR letters and decide where the lights will be. Using a drill bit slightly larger than fairy light bulbs, drill the holes through the cardboard and through the wood on the front of the bar.

Step 4

Measure the distance from the base of the bar to the plank section at the top and cut down 2 side supports to fit this measurement. These will be the supports for the drop-down bar. Lay out the planks close together and add the side supports, positioning them set in from the ends of the planks. This will ensure that the drop-down panel will fit inside the corner supports of the bar.

Step 5

Cut away an angle from the bottom of the corner supports at the front of the bar.

Place the drop-down section in position on the front of the bar and drill from the side through the corner support and the drop-down support. Add a coach bolt through the hole to act as the hinge. Repeat on the other side.

Step 6

Open the drop-down section and clad the top side with the planks. Use a tank cutter to cut holes along the back of the top layer. The holes need to be the size of your beer glasses, bottles or wine glasses, to allow them to sit inside the holes when the bar is finished. With the drop-down section closed, you’ll see a gap on the underside of the bar. Attach an extra support piece to fill the gap. This will create a ‘shelf’ behind the drop-down section when it is open.

Step 7

Sand down all the rough edges and paint the back planks and the hole section on the drop-down with copper spray paint.

Use chalkboard paint (either brush-on or spray paint) to paint the top, front and sides. This will allow you to use chalk to add the words ‘birthday’, ‘cocktail’ or any phrase you like to the top of the BAR sign.

Step 8

 

When the paint is dry, use an eye hook and carabiner to attach a chain to the inside edge of the corner support. Add another eye hook and carabiner to the front of the drop-down section and clip on the chain. To close the bar, add 2 eye hooks on each side and close with 2 carabiners. Working from the back of the bar, poke the fairy lights through the holes. Turn the bar over and paint a fine line of metallic paint between each fairy light to spell out the word BAR.

As with all our projects, please take care while using tools, materials and equipment.

This article was written by Cassie Fairy. You can find Cassie’s blog ‘My Thrifty Life’ at Cassiefairy.com, where she shares daily blog posts about her home DIY projects, upcycled finds, low-cost recipes and plenty of inspiration for living a lovely life on a budget.

 

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Outdoor Storage Bench Tutorial

 

Here are some Halloween door decorations which will literally throw you off of your hinges! All you need is a door, and some ideas. Oh wait, we’ve got that one covered for you. 😉

Use these terrifyingly brilliant ideas to decorate the outside of your home in order to prepare for visitors this Halloween – and let them know whether they’re in for a trick or a treat…

https://www.practicallyfunctional.com/diy-halloween-door-decoration/

We love the Tim Burton ‘Nightmare Before Christmas’ spin on this design, an ultimate spooky classic! Do you recon your neighbours could handle it?

https://www.michaels.com/monster-door-d%C3%A3%C2%A9cor/B_82014.html

This monstrosity is sure to be bagging a few frights and giggles.

http://twindragonflydesigns.com/jack-skellington-door-free-printable/

This design only uses only one sheet of black paper, and is high on the scare scale, easy as pie!

https://alwaystheholidays.com/mummy-door-decorations/

Can you wrap your head around how this one was done? Don’t knock it till you try it.

http://www.craftaholicsanonymous.net/halloween-googly-eye-door

The key is to make sure that people think they are being watched…

https://www.huffingtonpost.ca/2015/10/13/welcome-trick-or-treaters-9-easy-diy-front-door-decorations-for-halloween_n_8285058.html

This creepy number is not exactly what we’d call a-door-able. Also this door is not a door since it’s slightly a-jar?

http://www.homejelly.com/how-to-make-a-halloween-paper-bag-door-monster/

Shut the front door! You mean, that’s not a real monster?

https://davelowe.blogspot.com/2014/10/countdown-to-halloween-day-28-zombie.html?spref=pi

If there’s a zombie apocalypse I wouldn’t trust this boarded up door. They’re practically dying to get to you through those gaps!

We hope that instead of shutting out the idea of decorating your door, your brain is wide open to the potentials of door decorations! If you wood catch my drift…

If you have a go yourself, please use the hashtag #ManoMaker we would love to see some of your ghouly transformations. 🙂

 

6 Easy Homemade Halloween Decorations

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Geometric shapes are super trendy at the moment, and what’s cooler than a giant 20-sided icosahedron hanging from your ceiling? If you want to create your own bespoke and very unique ceiling light, then this is the DIY for you.

Tools & materials:

Wood
Tape Measure
Pencil
Table Saw
Digital Mitre Gauge
Wood Glue
Masking Tape
Drill
Ceiling Pendant

Cost, Duration and Difficulty:

We used free reclaimed wood for this project, however, should you need to buy wood, this project shouldn’t cost any more than around £15. The whole DIY took us no more than 2.5 hours to complete.

Step 1 – Cut Wood with an Angled Edge

For this project, we’re using some reclaimed wood, but you can use new planed wood if you choose. You want your wood to be around 1cm thick by 2cm width and you will need around 10m of this.

The first step is to put an angled edge onto one side of your wood. Using a digital mitre gauge, set the blade on your table saw to a 68.7degrees tilt with your fence 1cm away from the blade. You can then cut your wood lengthways along this set-up to add that angled edge.

Once you’ve done this, the side profile of your wood should look like this:

Step 2 – Cut 30º Angles on Either End

Now your lengths of wood have an angled edge on them, you’ll then want to cut them up into smaller pieces with a 30º cut on each end. These small pieces of timber will form a triangle when aligned together.

To do this, set your table saw mitre gauge to the 60º position and align your wood so the angled edge is on the far side away from the blade. Cut one angle and then flip your wood around and make the same cut in the opposite direction around 15cm down.

If you’ve cut these correctly the bevelled edge you added in step 1 should be on the longest side. You will need 60 individual pieces of these and they look like this:

Step 3 – Glue Wood into Individual Triangles

Now you have all your pieces, you can go ahead and begin to assemble the icosahedron shape. This is made up for 20 triangular sides so you will need to create 20 individual triangles. To do this, use some wood glue along each of the 30º cuts and firmly push together, wiping away any excess glue.

We recommend leaving this for a minimum of 24hours before moving onto the next step.

Step 4 – Glue Triangles Together

Once your triangles have dried, all you need to do is assemble them together. Apply some wood glue to the edges and push the triangles together. The angled edge you added in step 1 should ensure the shape begins to ‘close in’ as you do this.

You’ll want to wrap each glued edge in masking tape whilst it dries and we recommend only glueing 5 triangles together at one time to make sure it doesn’t become ‘too heavy’. Once they’ve dried, you can continue and add more.

Once you’ve glued all 20 sides together, it should now look like this:

Step 6 – Creating the Pendant Fitting

Now we have the shape fully built, we just need to turn it into a light fitting. To do this, we’ll need to be able to secure a pendant fitting into the centre on the icosahedron shape we’ve just made.

Cut a solid triangle shape from a thin piece of plywood. This should be the same size as one one of the triangles on its smallest side. Drill a hole through the centre of this, and cut the triangle into two pieces.

 

Step 7 – Attach Pendant Fitting

Slot the pendant through one of the triangles of the icosahedron shape so it’s positioned in the centre. Apply some wood glue to each piece to triangle you just cut and glue this to the inside of the same triangle. The hole in the triangle should slot around the cable of the pendant. Once this has dried, the pendant fitting will rest on this triangle when it’s secured to the ceiling.

  

Step 8 – Fit to Ceiling and Enjoy!

Now all you need to do is fit the light to a ceiling and enjoy your bespoke and unique geometric creation!

 

This article was written by Kerry, who’s blog you can find at kezzabeth.co.uk. Kerry is a DIY blogger who shares inspiration for home renovation, interior design and hacks for those on a budget!

 

 

Glass Bottle DIY – Bottle Cutter and Ceiling Light

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Why take up so much of your time searching for you ideal dream wallpaper print when you could just make it yourself? This handy guide will give you all the tips and tricks to create your own design on a paint roller, to cover all the wallpaper you’ve ever dreamed of. You could even use a rolling pin or lint roller instead of a paint roller, so you’re guaranteed to already have most of the objects in your house!

The tools and materials you will need to make this DIY are as follows:

 

  1. Lay out your plain wallpaper on a flat surface, making sure that the corners are secured to the floor to avoid any movement or creasing.
  2. Start off by deciding on the design you’d like to create, depending on your wildest wallpaper desires. We would recommend a template similar to the one below, but feel free to get as creative as you wish if you’re feeling fancy! This geometric one is great as it’s straightforward to design and cut out with a ruler, so that you can be sure to have straight lines and neat edges.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Pentagon_with_half_dodecahedral_net.svg

 

3. In order to prep your design for your paint roller, use your pencil and ruler to trace the outline of the design on the tracing paper.

4. Flip over the tracing paper and then transfer the design onto your craft foam by going over the outline once again.

5. Once you have your outline on the foam, lay out your cutting mat and scalpel or craft knife and begin to cut the shape out. Use your ruler as a guide to achieve the straightest lines possible.

6. Cut out as many shapes as you wish and play around with how you’d like them to be positioned on your paint roller. Cut yourself some slack, they don’t have to be perfect! You could do them in lines or place them randomly, wall-ever works for you!

 

https://www.maxpixel.net/Prepare-Woods-Rolling-Pin-Hare-Bake-Wood-Easter-3178329

7. Put some of your glue on the back of your cut outs and then stick them directly onto your roller of choice.

8. Once fully dry (don’t be tempted to skip this part or you’ll be heading for a wall of shame!), put some paint in your paint tray and use your newly designed paint roller in the tray, making sure to cover all your foam pieces.

Your roller is then ready to use! Paint your design on by rolling your paint roller vertically along your wallpaper. Make sure to pay extra attention when aligning your next line of paint to match up with the one before so that the patterns are symmetrical. Be sure to align your patterns with extra care!

 

Other methods

Alternatively, other methods of creating a design include cutting your pattern directly onto the roller for a more intricate pattern similar to the one below. If you were to choose this method, make sure you use a rubber paint roller or a wooden rolling pin as they are easier to cut through.

 

https://torange.biz/fr/wooden-rollers-print-patterns-48415

 

You can also use other objects to create patterns. Covering it with materials such as bubble wrap, and even slightly bunched up cling film gives a great effect, just play around with it, you’ll soon be on a roll! One of our personal favourites is to place lots of rubber bands around your roller and then cover it in paint, leaving you with straight lines like this.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cbogidex-TI

 

This decoration hack saves you lots of searching time and money and can be adapted really easily to whatever design works for you. If you give this a go do let us know so we can see your wonderful creations ourselves and don’t forget to use the hashtag #ManoMaker, happy DIY-ing!

 

 

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